Setting Up My New Snowblower – MovingSnow.com

Problems With Ariens Auto-Turn Snow Blowers?

Paul — Sat, 14 Dec 2013 17:42:59 +0000

I’m leaving this article up because the Internet never forgets. That said, Any issues – real or perceived – about the Ariens AutoTurn have been addressed and were fixed in 2016. If you purchased your Ariens after Sept 2016 the system works great. In fact the “intuitive differential” is now used by other companies and Ariens uses it across their entire line including the Commercial models.

Other companies that are using it call it “Automatic Steering.”

There are no problems with the new Ariens Auto-Turn differential. The differential itself is a welcome addition to snow blowers and I high recommend any snow blower that uses it. It is a new technology and is much easier to use than any previous snow blower. But like any new technology there is a slight “learning curve” as we get used to it. Please read this article because it does describe a few things that you should do if you are having issues using this machine.

All snow blowers will give you problems if they are not set up correctly. On all models with power steering take an extra 5 seconds setting the skid shoes and checking the tire pressure.

When you adjust the skid shoes be sure you are on a flat surface and be sure you raise both sides the same amount. If one side is higher than the other it will always want to pull to that side. I use a 6 inch by 22 inch piece of plywood under the scraper bar.

The tire pressure should be the same on both tires. If one tire is lower the snow blower will want to turn that way all the time.

Below are four items you should be aware of. Like all snow blowers it is a mechanical device and you should be aware of how to use it and how to troubleshoot if it is not performing to your expectations.

1. New, Inexperienced Owners:

The Auto-Turn is so much easier to use than a snow blower with locked or pin-lock axle that some of you are “over-steering” the machine. Take some time to get experienced with the Auto-Turn. You don’t have to “man-handle” this snow blower like the last one you used. For example, I have a snow blower that uses trigger steer. When I’m blowing snow I know that if I want to turn it just a little pulling the trigger will usually cause the snow blower to turn too much, so I catch myself forcing the handles with my hips instead of using the triggers. If you do that with the Auto-Turn it senses that you want to turn and may “over compensate” your movement. So….don’t put as much effort into turning as you are used to. Move the handles with your arms instead of your whole body and you will see that the Auto-Turn will work a lot better. Guide it-Don’t Steer It.

2. Assembly and Set-up Issues:

If you buy your new Ariens from The Home Depot please read and follow all the assembly directions. In addition read Number 3 below and verify the housing is aligned to the frame. The Home Depot offers an optional set-up and delivery. This setup is performed by an Authorized Ariens Dealer and I highly recommend spending this extra $79 if you are not mechanically inclined or new to using a snow blower. The Ariens Dealer takes the machine out of the packing crate, assembles it, inspects the new unit and makes any adjustments so when you use the snow blower for the first time it works exactly as it should. (I wish all brands offered this expert setup) The Deluxe 28 inch Model 921030 Ariens is letting me use this winter was taken out of the crate, assembled and adjusted by my local Ariens dealer BARSTOW STREET AUTO SERVICE.

3. Housings are not seated on the transmission frame. Ariens makes it easy for you to change the drive belts if you ever need to. To make the belt change easy there are slotted holes in the auger frame so it is very easy to insert the mounting bolts when you re-assemble the snow blower. The new Auto-Turn is sensitive enough that if you end up tightening these bolts with one side in the top of the slot and the other side in the bottom of the slot the snow blower thinks you want to turn and it will auto-compensate all the time. So if you split the snow blower to change the belts make sure you get both sides of the housing seated back on the pivot pins.

If your new snow blower wants to turn all the time lift up the front end and look at the skid shoes. If one is showing more wear than the other follow the procedure below to realign the housing to the frame. You only have to do this once.

Here is a video from Ariens on doing this adjustment:

Click for a larger view

Aligning the Blower Housing To The Transmission Frame.

From: David Miller, Product Support Manager. Ariens Company

1. Place the machine on a smooth level surface. The garage floor is a good spot, as long as you stay away from the floor drain, since the floor is sloped in that area.

2. Verify tire pressures are correct. Recommended inflation is embossed in the sidewall of the tire near the rim.

3. Loosen the skid shoe mounting bolts so that the skid shoes are completely loose, and the scraper blade is touching the ground.

4. Loosen the four bolts (two each side) that attach the blower housing to the frame. When all four bolts have been loosened, you may notice the machine settle into a level position.

5. Ensure the frame is fully seated into the blower housing by pressing down on the handlebars.

6. Retighten the four bolts (two each side) that attach the blower housing to the frame.

7. Place a 1/8” spacer under both ends of the scraper blade and retighten the skid shoes.

8. Press down on the handlebars and gently set the blower housing back down, verifying both skid shoes touch the ground at approximately the same time.

By performing these steps, the erratic motion of the machine which was being blamed on the Auto-Turn is corrected, and the machine drives in a nice straight line.

Ariens shot a video yesterday showing these steps, and will post it on the Ariens You-Tube channel early next week.

There are no problems with the new Ariens Auto-Turn differential. It is a new technology and is much easier to use than any previous snow blower.

I compare the new Auto-Turn to how the steering has progressed in cars over the years. Going from a solid axle snow blower to the new Auto-Turn is like going directly from a 1950’s manual steering Studebaker to a 2014 high performance Cadillac with power rack and pinion steering. The new steering is much easier to use but it also takes you a little time to get used to how responsive it is.
I owned a 1972 Ford F-350 truck for years. The manual steering in it was like a solid axle/pin lock snow blower. You felt very dip, bump, pot hole, and tar strip in the road and had to move the steering wheel to compensate. A 100 mile trip in that dependable old truck was more work than taking a 1000 mile trip in a luxury car.
Trigger steering was a big advancement for snow blowers. Like power steering in your 1979 Dodge Polara it is much easier to use than a solid axle system. You still have to think about turning though. In other words to turn the snow blower you have to pull a handle mounted trigger to turn the unit. When you pull the trigger it releases a cog and the snow blower changes direction. What makes it harder to use though than the Auto-Turn is the direction change can be jerky and to turn the unit just a little you find yourself physically moving the snow blower with your arms and shoulders. After a few hours you are tired from using the machine.
The new Ariens Auto-Turn compares to the steering in a new Lincoln or Cadillac. The steering is those cars is very easy to use and very responsive to your movements of the steering wheel. After a while you realize that you don’t have to move the steering wheel near as much or as often to drive the car. It’s a huge change over the old Studebaker and once you get used to the new steering you realize you never want to go back.

4. Other items I want to highlight if you set up the snow blower yourself:

Missing wheel keys. If you remove a wheel for any reason the Ariens Auto-Turn uses “keys” between the axle and the wheel rim. These are rectangular pieces of steel about 1/4 inch by 1 inch long may fall out onto the ground when you remove the wheel. Make sure you find them and put them back when you replace the wheel.
Skid shoes need to be flat on ground, not tipped. When I set up a new snow blower for hard surfaces like a driveway I adjust it so there is about 1/8 inch of clearance under the bottom of the scraper. I have a 20 inch piece of wood that is about 1/8 inch thick that I place that stick under the scraper. I then loosen the skid shoes and lower them. When I tighten them I make sure the the bolts are even in the slots and that the shoes are not tipped.
Tire inflation. Just like a solid axle snow blower if both tires are not inflated the same the snow blower will want to turn in the direction of the tire with the lower tire pressure. The problem is aggravated with the Auto-Turn and it “thinks” you want to turn in that direction. If the snow blower keeps wanting to turn check to make sure the air pressure is the same in both tires.

In summary, there are no problems with the new differential. The problems are “normal” issues that you will have with all snow blowers. Ariens has not seen any actual malfunctioning differentials.

Buy Here: Ariens Deluxe 28 in. Electric Start Gas Snow Blower with Auto-Turn Steering 921030

Go Here to read my full review: 2014 Ariens Deluxe 28 Snow Blower 921030 with Auto-Turn Review

The post Problems With Ariens Auto-Turn Snow Blowers? appeared first on MovingSnow.com.

I Got My New Snow Blower Home, Now What?

Paul — Thu, 17 Oct 2013 14:42:50 +0000

Hello Paul,

First thank you so much for your web site. If you ever add a paypal to give “tips”, I would gladly chip in.
If I could ask you a question: I’m in the northeast. Bought a new Craftsman 88173 over the summer when Sears was having a good deal. Haven’t done anything with it other than taking it out of the box.

My question is: should I be doing the summer/fall maintenance right now – change oil, etc.? It seemed to have shipped with some oil but not a lot – should I just drain it and put in the synthetic oil I bought along with it? Any other things I should do for good care and feeding? Feel free to just point me to a spot on your web site and say “DO IT!!!”

Again thank you so much.

Hi,

If you take about 30 minutes now to finish the set up of your snow blower and learn a few things about it, you will be able to use it and repair it for many years to come.

Grab your manual. For a Craftsman, if you can’t find it go to managemylife.com. Click on the manuals tab and put in the model number (it’s on the silver plate on the bottom right corner in the back of the snow blower) You can read it there or print it off. (For other brands go to their website, find the support tab and click through to the manuals and parts section.)

Must Do:

1. You can change the oil to synthetic. And then change it every spring before you put it away. If you don’t change the oil make sure the oil it came with is between the high and low marks on the dipstick. 5W-30 is the correct weight.

2. Check the tire pressure. If they are not even the machine will pull in the direction of the low tire.

3. Get an extra package of shear pins. Hang them on the wall where you can find them. Remove and replace one now so you now how to do it with snow and gloves. You can tip your snow blower back on the handles to inspect and change the pins.

4. Use a fuel stabilizer in the gas. I like SeaFoam at 2 tablespoons per gallon in your storage container.

5. Adjust the skid-shoes. I lay the operator’s manual under the front scraper and then lower the skid-shoes until they touch the ground. That gives you about 1/8 inch clearance. That keeps the scraper bar from wearing out quickly and keeps the snow blower from catching on most cracks in your driveway and sidewalks. If you have a gravel drive, raise it up a little higher.

6. Play with the controls. The levers on the handles and the chute control should move easily. The gear shift will be very stiff.

I also suggest:

1. Remove the belt cover. It is the plastic cover between the engine and the chute. Look at the belts and move the control levers to see how the tensioners work. Feel the tension of the belt (press in the middle of the belt) with the control levers down and with them released. Look at the parts as they move when you move the control levers. Do this so you can troubleshoot your snow blower if it ever stops moving or quits blowing snow. It is easy to change these two belts if one ever breaks. (Myself I would get an extra set now and hang them with the shear pins) Put the cover back on.

2. Cables. Move the controls on the handles and watch the cables that go from them to snow blower. See how much tension is on them and look where there are pulleys and connections. Get used to how they look and feel now. Very few owners have problems with these cables, but if the snow blower won’t move or it won’t blow snow these are one of the items you should check.

3. Engine Controls. Craftsman engines have a choke, throttle, primer bulb, safety key and electric starter push button. Other brands will not have a throttle but will have a fuel shut-off. Make sure the safety key is fully inserted in the slot. Play with the other controls to see how they feel. For example the choke will have notches and the throttle has an off position.

4. Fuel. I buy about 6 hours fuel. For your new Craftsman 88173 that is about 2 gallons. I always put the 2 tablespoons per gallon of SeaFoam in the gas can before I go get the gas. If you have E-15 in your area, be sure not to buy it. E-15 WILL RUIN YOUR SNOW BLOWER ENGINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Note: Snow engines are not designed to run when it is over 45 degrees. For the next steps don’t run your snow blower for more than 5 minutes.

5. Starting the engine. When the engine is cold.

a. Make sure the safety key is in the snow blower.

b. Move the throttle to rabbit (fast)

c. Set the choke to full

d. Push the primer bulb 3 to 6 times.

e. Pull the starter handle until the engine fires, and then adjust the choke until the engine runs smoothly. You can use the electric starter if you like, but also get used to starting it with the pull start. NOTE: You may not be able to run the engine with the choke completely off. You may also not be able to idle the engine. This is normal with a winterized engine and there is nothing wrong with it if it won’t idle or it won’t run with the choke completely off!

If the engine is warm (had been running in the last 15 minutes) you will not need to push the primer bulb, or set the choke to full. It will probably start by just moving the throttle to fast and pulling the starter rope.

6. Play with it and get used to it. (Yes you can use it out on your lawn. Running grass and a few leaves through it won’t hurt the machine) ALWAYS RUN THE ENGINE AT FULL THROTTLE. If you don’t you will plug the snow blower when you try to blow snow.

7. Marking obstructions. My wife has rocks around her landscape beds. I mark the ones next to the driveway with driveway markers. Sears has some great, cheap ones here:

8. After you put your snow blower away sit down and read the entire operator’s manual. You’ll be surprised what you learn.

The post I Got My New Snow Blower Home, Now What? appeared first on MovingSnow.com.

My Snow Blower Is Throwing Rocks! Or How to Raise a Scraper Bar on a Snow Thrower

Paul — Tue, 06 Sep 2011 13:47:00 +0000

Your new snow blower needs to be adjusted for the type of surface you are cleaning snow from. The snow blower right out of the box is set to scrape all the snow from the surface and anything else that it can pick up. I’ve noticed that a lot of them are not adjusted at all. The skid shoes are too high or one is adjusted higher than the other.

Here is a short video that you can watch that shows you how to adjust the snowblower so it doesn’t pick up rocks or catch on every little crack in your drive or sidewalk.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIHTZKkYo44

This guy adjusted that snow blower so there was a 3/4 inch gap between the snowblower and the ground. That is fine if you are cleaning your lawn or the gravel on your drive is very loose, but in most cases though that is too high.

For a concrete drive or sidewalk that has cracks adjust the skid shoes so there is a about 1/4 inch clearance. If you place the operator’s manual under the wear bar this is about the right height. Your snowblower won’t get caught on every crack this way and will only leave a small amount of snow on your drive.

For asphalt, blacktop, or other smooth driveways I suggest adjusting the skis shoes so the wear bar just touches. Don’t put anything under the bar but still loosen and tighten the skid shoes. Sometimes they are too set too high at the factory and you grind off the wear bar.

For gravel drives you have to experiment. If the ground is froze you can get close, if the ground is soft you may have to raise it up 1/2 -3/4 inch. I usually raise the wear bar up to 3/4 inch, clean that area and then let what’s left freeze solid. I can then lower the skid shoes back down and they won’t cut thru that frozen layer.

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