Setting Up Your New Snow blower – MovingSnow.com

I Got My New Snow Blower Home, Now What?

Paul — Thu, 17 Oct 2013 14:42:50 +0000

Hello Paul,

First thank you so much for your web site. If you ever add a paypal to give “tips”, I would gladly chip in.
If I could ask you a question: I’m in the northeast. Bought a new Craftsman 88173 over the summer when Sears was having a good deal. Haven’t done anything with it other than taking it out of the box.

My question is: should I be doing the summer/fall maintenance right now – change oil, etc.? It seemed to have shipped with some oil but not a lot – should I just drain it and put in the synthetic oil I bought along with it? Any other things I should do for good care and feeding? Feel free to just point me to a spot on your web site and say “DO IT!!!”

Again thank you so much.

Hi,

If you take about 30 minutes now to finish the set up of your snow blower and learn a few things about it, you will be able to use it and repair it for many years to come.

Grab your manual. For a Craftsman, if you can’t find it go to managemylife.com. Click on the manuals tab and put in the model number (it’s on the silver plate on the bottom right corner in the back of the snow blower) You can read it there or print it off. (For other brands go to their website, find the support tab and click through to the manuals and parts section.)

Must Do:

1. You can change the oil to synthetic. And then change it every spring before you put it away. If you don’t change the oil make sure the oil it came with is between the high and low marks on the dipstick. 5W-30 is the correct weight.

2. Check the tire pressure. If they are not even the machine will pull in the direction of the low tire.

3. Get an extra package of shear pins. Hang them on the wall where you can find them. Remove and replace one now so you now how to do it with snow and gloves. You can tip your snow blower back on the handles to inspect and change the pins.

4. Use a fuel stabilizer in the gas. I like SeaFoam at 2 tablespoons per gallon in your storage container.

5. Adjust the skid-shoes. I lay the operator’s manual under the front scraper and then lower the skid-shoes until they touch the ground. That gives you about 1/8 inch clearance. That keeps the scraper bar from wearing out quickly and keeps the snow blower from catching on most cracks in your driveway and sidewalks. If you have a gravel drive, raise it up a little higher.

6. Play with the controls. The levers on the handles and the chute control should move easily. The gear shift will be very stiff.

I also suggest:

1. Remove the belt cover. It is the plastic cover between the engine and the chute. Look at the belts and move the control levers to see how the tensioners work. Feel the tension of the belt (press in the middle of the belt) with the control levers down and with them released. Look at the parts as they move when you move the control levers. Do this so you can troubleshoot your snow blower if it ever stops moving or quits blowing snow. It is easy to change these two belts if one ever breaks. (Myself I would get an extra set now and hang them with the shear pins) Put the cover back on.

2. Cables. Move the controls on the handles and watch the cables that go from them to snow blower. See how much tension is on them and look where there are pulleys and connections. Get used to how they look and feel now. Very few owners have problems with these cables, but if the snow blower won’t move or it won’t blow snow these are one of the items you should check.

3. Engine Controls. Craftsman engines have a choke, throttle, primer bulb, safety key and electric starter push button. Other brands will not have a throttle but will have a fuel shut-off. Make sure the safety key is fully inserted in the slot. Play with the other controls to see how they feel. For example the choke will have notches and the throttle has an off position.

4. Fuel. I buy about 6 hours fuel. For your new Craftsman 88173 that is about 2 gallons. I always put the 2 tablespoons per gallon of SeaFoam in the gas can before I go get the gas. If you have E-15 in your area, be sure not to buy it. E-15 WILL RUIN YOUR SNOW BLOWER ENGINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Note: Snow engines are not designed to run when it is over 45 degrees. For the next steps don’t run your snow blower for more than 5 minutes.

5. Starting the engine. When the engine is cold.

a. Make sure the safety key is in the snow blower.

b. Move the throttle to rabbit (fast)

c. Set the choke to full

d. Push the primer bulb 3 to 6 times.

e. Pull the starter handle until the engine fires, and then adjust the choke until the engine runs smoothly. You can use the electric starter if you like, but also get used to starting it with the pull start. NOTE: You may not be able to run the engine with the choke completely off. You may also not be able to idle the engine. This is normal with a winterized engine and there is nothing wrong with it if it won’t idle or it won’t run with the choke completely off!

If the engine is warm (had been running in the last 15 minutes) you will not need to push the primer bulb, or set the choke to full. It will probably start by just moving the throttle to fast and pulling the starter rope.

6. Play with it and get used to it. (Yes you can use it out on your lawn. Running grass and a few leaves through it won’t hurt the machine) ALWAYS RUN THE ENGINE AT FULL THROTTLE. If you don’t you will plug the snow blower when you try to blow snow.

7. Marking obstructions. My wife has rocks around her landscape beds. I mark the ones next to the driveway with driveway markers. Sears has some great, cheap ones here:

8. After you put your snow blower away sit down and read the entire operator’s manual. You’ll be surprised what you learn.

The post I Got My New Snow Blower Home, Now What? appeared first on MovingSnow.com.

Setting Up Your New Snow Thrower

Paul — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 13:11:17 +0000

I got the box home! Now What!

This is will take you 20 minutes to complete. Ten minutes to read the operator’s manual and ten minutes to set up your new snow thrower.

Open the box

Grab the plastic bag and read the operators manual.

Disclaimer: I am explaining to you from years of experience how to set up and start your snow thrower. I am using a typical two-stage snow thrower as an example. If the operator’s manual instructs you to do something different than what I say here always follow those instructions, not mine.

Cut one end out of the box

Drag the snowthrower out. You may have to cut some straps or lift it off some wood blocking to get it out.

Check the cable from the gear selector on the handle and make sure cables are routed through the pulleys

Lift up the handles and tighten the two wing nuts where the handle pivots.

Install the discharge chute as shown in the manual if needed. If your snow thrower has the new single joystick control the chute is most likely already installed. If it takes a tool to install the manual will tell you what you need.

Check the engine oil. Make sure the oil is up to the “full” mark on the dipstick. If your motor does not have a dipstick open the oil fill plug (the manual will show you where) and the oil should look like it is just about ready to overflow out of the hole. If you need to add oil use a heavy duty 5W-30.

The tire pressure as shipped is higher than you need. Adjust the tire pressure using a tire gauge. 15 – 20 lbs in each tire is good. MAKE SURE THE TIRE PRESSURE IS EQUAL IN BOTH TIRES. If is not equal the snowblower will pull to one side when moving.

Tape the extra shear pins to the handle. I use a heavy duty clear packing tape.

Look it all over one more time and check to see if there is any packing material stuck in it anywhere.

Check the height of the skid shoes. (See the manual for exactly how to adjust the shoes) If you are using it on smooth cement or blacktop, adjust the shoes so the wear bar is just off the ground (about 1/8 inch) If your cement sidewalk or drive has parts of it that have dropped or raised you may have to raise the unit a litttle more so you don’t get stuck on those. If you are going to use it on gravel or clean a dog run in your back yard adjust the shoes so there is more of a gap between the wear bar and the ground (about a 1/4 inch is usually good).

Check the oil level. Most snow throwers come pre-filled or there is the right amount of oil in the plastic bag.

Fill it with fuel. All the new motors run on regular grade car gas. BUT!!! Some of the smaller single stage snow throwers use a oil/gas mix. Please read the operator’s manual if you are not sure.

NOTE: The starting procedure for a snowblower is a little different than starting your lawn mower. There is an extra step or two and it takes the motor a little longer to start running smoothly in really cold weather.

Put in the safety key. (If you have kids or anyone who may play with your machine when you are not around I suggest always pulling this key when you are not using the snowblower and hanging it up in a cabinet or someplace out of reach)

Turn the start switch to run,

Turn the choke to closed. When you close the choke you may notice it click’s as you turn it. That is normal and those clicks are used to help the machine warm up when you first start it or stay running in really cold weather.

Push the prime button four times.

Plug one end of the starter cord into the starter on your snowblower and the other into a 110 volt outlet. (normal house outlet)

Push the start button and 2 to 5 seconds after the engine fires, start turning the choke to open one click at a time until the engine runs smoothly. My 10 year old machine usually takes about 10 seconds to do this starting procedure. A new machine may take less time.

Note: When you are starting your snow thrower the engine exhaust may spew out steam or a dark gray smoke when it first starts. This is normal for the first 10 to 30 seconds and while you are adjusting the choke to full open.

Move the snowblower outside. I always push down on the handles and lift the front end off the ground when I’m moving it out of the garage. That way I don’t pick up a wandering screw or rock that may be on the floor of my garage. (I’m a woodworker and I drop things)

Once outside aim the discharge chute away from anything (like your car, the windows, etc.) that might be damaged from flying debris.

Push down on the handle that starts the auger. Increase the engine speed to full (rabbit) and if everything is running smoothly, start blowing snow!!

If you have to stop moving snow and come inside to warm up remember to park your snow thrower close enough to the house so you can hook up the starter cord if you want to use the electric starter to start it again.

Have fun!

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